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Some cats don't like collars at all, but it is well worth trying to persuade your cat that it is a good idea. An identity tag can be attached to the collar, as well as bells to scare off any birds a cat might be viewing as its next meal. They can be reflective, which alerts motorists. Make sure the collar has an elastic insert, so that it can slip off should it be caught in the branch of a tree. Think about an 'identichip' as a permanent way of identifying your cat - this can be painlessly inserted under a cat's skin by a vet.

 

You need two shallow bowls; one for water and one for food. Pottery bowls are ideal, as they are easy to clean, although they should always be washed separately and never with your own crockery. Throw out any uneaten food after your cat has finished eating and always make sure there is fresh water available at all times.

 

Cats usually adapt well to using the litter tray, but make sure that you also get the plastic cleaning tool, and use cat litter granules rather than soil or other uncomfortable alternatives. Make sure you always wear gloves when cleaning out the litter tray, and pregnant women should take additional precautions due to the possible risk from toxoplasmosis, a tiny parasite which can be found in cat faeces. Toxoplasma eggs are not infective for at least 24 hours after they have been deposited, so the risks are reduced if the litter tray is emptied, washed and disinfected once a day.

 

Cats need an easily cleaned, cosy, bed, which should have no sharp corners or potential splinters that could cause injuries. Some cats prefer squishy beds with a roof - especially suitable for a 'shy' cat. Some prefer wicker baskets, which can be lined with towelling to avoid hard edges. It is best to place the bed in a warm, draught-free spot. The bedding needs to be washed weekly.

 

Cats love playing with toys, and they are a vital part of their socialisation. You can buy special 'cat toys' from pet shops, supermarkets and pet behaviourists, but often a ball of paper dangling from a door jamb works as well.

 

A short-haired cat, such as a svelte Siamese, will obviously need less grooming than a long-haired cat like a purring Persian, although every cat usually enjoys the attention! A short-haired cat needs a soft brush and a fine comb, but a long-haired cat will need a firmer brush and both fine- and wide-toothed combs to make sure any tangles are dealt with promptly. All cats need grooming, and doing it at a regular time helps make it a more pleasurable experience.

 

Scratching is part of normal cat behaviour, and causes no problems when it is done outside; it's when it's done indoors that it causes most problems. The cat is actually making sure its claws are in tip-top condition through this exercise. So it's a bit more like a 'manicure' rather than just sharpening!

Scratching posts are easily bought from a pet shop, and you can even make your own, although it's not a good idea to cover it with carpet, as the cat may then think that it's acceptable to use any carpet in the house! If you place the scratching post in front of where the cat has done claw-conditioning most, it will soon use it. Once it's in regular use, move the post to a better location. To try to get a cat to use the trees outside, placing bark or a tree post in front of the scratched furniture may work. Make sure that the post is of the right height for the cat. It will need to be high enough so that the cat can stretch fully.

As cats are very independent, a cat flap is ideal when there is easy access to a garden. They can then come and go as they please. However, consider dealing with cats coming in from outside to eat your cat's food! If this is a potential problem, it may be worthwhile considering a 'collar-operated' cat flap, that only opens when your cat approaches.

 

You will need to take your cat along to the vet's, and there are lots of different types of carriers available. Some cats prefer wire baskets, so they can look out and some prefer wicker ones where they feel enclosed and secure. Cardboard cat-carriers are acceptable for very short, unstressful journeys but can collapse if they get wet with urine, for example.


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